The staff is young and attentive, with an enthusiasm that’s infectious.

The facilities are plush and numerous. The farmhouse-style Cowshed spa in the basement has an stylish tiled space with indoor pool, steam room and four wood-panelled treatment rooms, there is a sunny and splendidly equipped gym, and the member’s floor is a hedonist’s paradise of sofas and guilty pleasures: bowls of sweets; a free-to-use photo booth; some excellent celeb-spotting.

Cecconi’s, the grand yet extremely comfortable restaurant on the ground floor, turns out outstanding Italian dishes for unexpectedly reasonable prices, while the House Kitchen on the members’ floor focuses on local dishes, alongside hotel staples such as steak-frites and cheeseburgers.